Dollhouse and miniatures: frontdoor and walls
On this picture a
close-up of the front-door. Before making this door, I drove around our village on a Sunday with my camera and made lots of front-door-pictures. On the little picture you can see the original door from a house in Pijnacker. Materials I used: wooden lathes, birch-triplex, plastic triangle lath, selfdrying clay, big paperclips, pins, ironwire and iron-band. |
The bike I bought in a second-hand shop from Terre des Hommes. In the hall will be the stairs, behind that the toilet. On the left under the stairs comes a door to the cellar, which is also to be reached from the kitchen.
A lot of people asked me
how I 'did' the brick: I first painted the boards with
white paint (just normal wall-paint) twice or three
times. It must be a thick layer that's really dry. Then I
painted little pieces (10 x 10 cm, or approximately 4 x 4
inches) at a time with brick colored craft paint. When it
was still wet, I sprinkled fine craft sand on the red
paint. The paint colored the sand red immediately. You
can also buy colored sand intended for "sand
painting" at craft stores in the U.S. Then wait just
for 10 minutes till it's almost dry and scrape away the If the paint is all dry, you can't scrape the red paint neatly without scraping the white paint also. If the paint is too wet, it will fill the joins while scraping. |
|
Do the next small section,
and so on. After this I filled some of the 'bricks' with
a different colour (brown, greenbrown, yellow-red, and
other shades) with a very fine brush - brick by brick.
Approximately 20 percent has a second color like this. I
didn't like it all red. Over the years the white joins have become lightly beige or yellow because of sun, dust etc. I've noticed that my hard-board was better going then the softer balsa-wood pieces I used for the window sills. Then the paint absorbed into the wood too much. Maybe a good primer-sealer coat first would help in those cases. I also noticed that thick paint works better then new thin paint. The great advantage of this method is that one can always repaint or repair bits and pieces plus make patterns above the windows like real life exactly the size you want. On top of each window I scraped two layers of wood away (the board I used are 5 layers thick and is called Multiplex-wood) to make window 'caps' from little mosaic-tiles. This was also just paint, this time without the sand. The last advantage is that, when I decided the windows fall INto the walls, I could go through painting the insides of the windows till the point it meets the wood of the windows. By the way: I also made the windows myself and they are still not glued so I can change the drapings on my table and wallpapering behind the window-trimming. |
The door from the hall to the
living-room is just finished. I only need to build the thing in my house.
Just like the sliding-doors this door has stained glass. The pattern I
copied from a real door in a house in the Emmapark in our town Pijnacker.
The colors are also copied from the real one. You want to know how I made this, please click here. |
Specially for the bike on the
side-walk, I made a bicycle-punp. Imagine you have a flat tire !
See also the workshop bicycle-pump |
updated 14-05-03